Thank you very much for the URL about detecting hidden electrical leaks.  I watched it with great interest, and was much impressed and pleased by its intelligence. I consider our automobile problem analogous to a medical problem and begin with the history.

The last trip which Mommy and I made to Konnarock was in 2013. There was then no concern about electrical problems with the car and no battery cable needed to be detached. Mommy died on October 14, 2015.  In the spring of 2016, shortly after the final adverse Appeals Court ruling, there was a break-in on Nantucket.  I made a one day trip to investigate. On the drive back on Route 3 at Hingham, I "accidentally" veered to the right side of the road, struck a rock with the right front tire, bursting that tire and damaging the rim. Sometime thereafter, in the middle of the night, I began to hear the horn of the car blowing intermittently associated with transient flaring of the headlights, such as occurs when the car is electronically locked from a distance. 

My initial assumption was a defect, an intermittent short circuit in one of the electronic car keys, and I experimentally disabled the suspect key by removing its battery and relocated all of the other keys from the kitchen where they were in closest proximity to the parked car, but all to no avail. Then the electronic car keys themselves began to fail and I replaced the batteries in the keys, but again to no avail. One morning the car failed to start because the battery was drained. We jump-started the car, drove it to Chico's, who ignored my explanations and without further investigation installed a new battery.  When that battery also drained "spontaneously" I gave up on Chico's and continued to use the car as at present, when parked: a) with the doors kept unlocked, and b) the negative cable to the battery detached.

My differential diagnosis is as follows: a) defect in one of the electronic keys, b) defect in the "antenna" circuits for the incoming (up-stream) radio-frequency signal, c) defect in the body computer, d) intermittent short circuit in the (down-stream) circuits, (perhaps damaged by the accident on Route 3 in Hingham).  A parasitic battery drain such as is explored in the video to which you sent me the URL cannot be the only cause of our problem with its active side effects. Parasitic battery drain might admittedly be a concurrent problem. I remember my father's diagnostic wisdom: Vergiss nie, dass man zugleich Flöhe und Läuse haben kann. The treshhold diagnostic observations are a) that at times when detaching the cable there is a visible spark, indicative of a substantial flow of (possibly parasitic) current, and b) that at times when reattaching the the cable there is a brief sound of the horn. (Since this occurs in daylight, I'm not sure whether there is also transient flashig of headlights. 

The only one of these diagnoses accessible to testing was a defective body computer. Since replacement body computers were no longer available from the manufacturer, I bought a scavenged body computer on the Internet, and had it installed by Chicos. Initially it seemed to work. The noctural flashing of headlights and horn signaling did not recur. But soon a new symptom appeared, the intermittent clicking, while driving, of doors being locked and unlocked; and again the battery drained spontaneously so as to require jump starting.

That's the present situation. Conventionally one would take the car to a Dodge dealer for repairs. Replacement of either "upstream" or "downstream" wiring, if possible at all, would require at minimum disassembly of all four doors. I doubt that a Dodge dealer would repair any car with parts that were no longer available from the manufacturer but  available only when scavenged from a junk yard.  Most likely the Dodge dealer would declare the car irreparable, but only after having extracted a $150+- fee for diagnosis.  I thought it more practical to continue using the car as is, leaving the car unlocked at all times, and detaching the battery cable when the car was parked.

I consider testing for a parasitic leak only marginally relevant. It would require modifying one of our present volt-ohm meters to an ampere meter with an array of resistors (such as I have in the basement) and contorting ones body with much awkwardness serially to extract the fuses from the fuse box under the dashboard. These fuses are so difficult to identify, to extract and to replace, that even when I was more agile, I might have found myself inadvertently and irreversibly disabling the car entirely.

Nothing is easy.