January 4, 2024

In rereading yesterday's letter to you, I note the following ambiguities/omissions.

A) Hot water tank adjustment/repair

a) keep in mind that electrical faults (as from broken wires or loose screws) are often intermittent.

b) when with power turned "on", you measure voltages on the circuit breaker (red button reset) on the hot water tank, check first of all voltage between the top 1 and 3 == 240V, between 1 and ground == 120V, between 3 and ground == 120V in d240103_04_hot_water_heater.png. If these voltages are absent, the local on/off switch (on the wall above the tank) and/or the main 30 Amp.  circuit breakers are defective or are not turned on. If you suspect a 30 Amp. circuit breaker defect, you can test it by exchanging it with the 30 Amp. circuit breaker to the clothes dryer.

c) If you have occasion to purchase new circuit breakers (of any amperage) keep in mind that they are circuit breaker box specific. All circuit breaker boxes I have installed (3 in Belmont, 1 on Nantucket) are "G.E." brands.  I have never hat occasion to test the report that "G.E." circuit breakers are interchangeable with "Siemens" circuit breakers.

d) If you find it necessary to replace an electric heating element in the how watertank, you will need a special wrench
https://www.amazon.com/water-heater-element-socket/s?k=water+heater+element+socket
https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-40-1601-Heater-Element-Wrench/dp/B00HYXRFQ8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=water+heater+element+socket&qid=1704406777&sr=8-5

e) I suggest initially setting both the upper and lower thermostats in the hot wter heater at the factory temperature of 125 degrees, d240104_07_hot_water_heater.png d240104_08_hot_water_heater.png, and later, if necessary, increasing each setting, stepwise, by about 10 degrees.

B) Adjusting Symmons-Temptrol-Pressure-Balancing-Tub-and-Shower-Mixing-Valve-with-VersaFlex-Integral-Diverter-S262BODY

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Symmons-Temptrol-Pressure-Balancing-Tub-and-Shower-Mixing-Valve-with-VersaFlex-Integral-Diverter-S262BODY/312868139

https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/ed/ed7d3aab-ee38-4155-8274-00de11c96446.pdf

a) If I remember correctly, I bought four Symmons Mixing Valves with cover plates and handles for about $95 each. I find now that cover plates and handles are sold separately, with numerous mixing valves sold at different prices.  I remember being advised that the valves I had bought (and installed) could be reused, but whether they actually were, I don't know.

b) I don't remember whether the handles to the valves I installed were secured with Allen wrench screws or with machine screws.

c) When you go to Nantucket, I suggest you take the two sets of Allen wrenches from 174 (at least one of which is in the drawer of this table) and a set of small screw drivers.

d) If the maximum hot water temperature from the mixing valve is less than the unmixed hot water output of the kitchen faucet, you have the option of trying to adjust the mixing valve.  To minimize the risk of getting soaked and or scalded I would begin by working on a mixing valve in a bathtub enclosure.

To do so, you remove the mixing valve handle after loosening the Allen wrench or machine screw with which it is fastened, you then remove the cover plate which is attached to the valve by two machine screws. The front of the mixing valve is then exposed. The valve mounting plate, (d240104_03_Symmonds_Mixing_Valve.png) if it has been installed does not require to be removed.  If the appearance of the front of the mixing valve is NOT identical to or similar with d240104_02_Symmonds_Mixing_Valve.png I would take a photograph, replace the cover plate and reattach the handle, do nothing more at this time, but try to get more information from the manufacturer as to how to proceed.

If the appearance of the front of the mixing valve IS identical to or similar with d240104_02_Symmonds_Mixing_Valve.png it seems reasonable to try to adjust the mixing temperature.  The instructions for adjusting the mixing temperature are incomplete and ambiguous. (d240104_02_Symmonds_Mixing_Valve.png) My inference is that the "Packing Nut" does NOT need to be loosened or tightened. I would reapply the handle to the control spindle and turn the control spindle clockwise to its limit.  I would then try to loosen the temperature limit stop screw by turning it not more than 45 degrees counter clockwise. I would then slowly advance the rotation of the control spindle clockwise, cautious so as not to get scalded or soaked, until the desired water temperature was obtained. I would then tighten the temperature limit stop screw, replace the cover plate and the handle of the control spindle.

If the foregoing maneuvre was unsuccessful, I would repeat it, having initially loosend the packing nut with a crescent wrench, restoring it at the end of the procedure to its original tension.

e) If the mixing valve temperature adjustment in the bathtub enclosure was successful, I would consider whether a similar adjustment should be attempted in one of the shower stalls after the electricity to the hot water tank had been turned off and both hot and cold water supply pipes had been drained, so as to obviate the risk being soaked or scalded. The instructions are emphatic to the effect that the mixing valve will not function in the absence of water pressure in both the how and cold inputs. Whether an attempt to adjust the mixing temperature in the absence of water pressure would be successful or would (possibly irreparably) damage the valve, I don't know. I would consider making specific inquiry of the manufacturer, or of taking the risk of damaging the valve, or of taking the risks of getting soaked or scalded with water pressures applied.